“I secretly hoped that Toge Goreng isn’t going to be as rare as daun lipung.”
Meet Pak Raisan, one of the oldest Toge Goreng sellers on Jalan Suryakencana. “The cendol seller and I were the first to open a business in this area,” said Pak Raisan.
Other than the fact that he moved to the current location since 1982, Pak Raisan has no idea when was the year he began selling Toge Goreng (fried bean sprout with soy bean paste as a sauce). “I learned to make Toge Goreng from Mang Gebro, also known as Sani’un,” recalled Pak Raisan. “He was the creator of the dish. And, at that time, the price was only Rp. 750 per portion.”
Over the years, the Toge Goreng’s price has gone up to Rp. 10,000. Despite the inflation and other changes that have happened in Bogor, Pak Raisan tries to keep the dish as authentic as possible.
His effort could be seen from how he is still using daun lipung (also known as daun andong or hanjuang leaf) to wrap the lontong (rice cake) and for take away portion. “Daun lipung is a rarity nowadays. Luckily, I’ve an existing supplier,” he said.
According to him, daun lipung is useful to give an aroma to Toge Goreng. It made me realise the pleasant unique aroma I got while eating Pak Raisan’s Toge Goreng was created by this leaf. When it comes to the food, the Toge Goreng was served with soybean paste and coconut milk resulting in a flavour a tad sour. Nevertheless, the plain noodles and crunchy bean sprouts tastes managed to balance the sourness, resulted a well-combined flavour.
Realising that he’s not young anymore, Pak Raisan has prepared his son to take over the stall. The son – now acting at the de facto sous chef – has started to help Pak Raisan serve the customers. As I left the stall, I secretly hoped that Toge Goreng isn’t going to be as rare as daun lipung.
By Jessicha Valentina
(In front of shoplot No. 129)
Open daily from 8am-5pm
Rp. 10,000 / US$ 0.70