Jakarta: Toko Kue Marga

I left the Picnic Roll on a table for hours, and its crunchiness didn’t diminish even one bit.”

A social call to Toko Kue Marga is like taking a trip down memory lane – every little detail that you see inside will make you reminisce about the good ole days, from the shop’s interior to the pastries on offer.

Built inside a garage, expect no fancy shelves for cakes or modern furniture. What you’ll get instead are black-and-white walls and stainless steel shelves that will give you an idea of how long has the house been around. Its popularity has been built by word of mouth – the pastry shop has never used advertisements and it doesn’t even have a signboard – and its top-drawer classic pastries.

Founded in 1960 by Ibu Margareta – from which its name was derived from – Toko Kue Marga has a wide array of quintessential Indonesian treats ranging from Picnic Roll, Risoles and Lapis Surabaya to home-made ice cream. Made using Ibu Margaret’s own recipes, it’s such a shame to find out that the great lady passed away a few years ago at the ripe old age of 97. During her last days, she was still getting her hands dirty with the production process of the shop’s delicacies. The baton was passed on to Pak Tom Yahya, who is Ibu Margareta’s eldest son. Together with his wife, he now juggles between managing the shop and overseeing production in Slipi. Under his watchful eye, the high standards that were set by his mum have not waned, and it was evident from the Picnic Roll and Lapis Surabaya that I purchased on my visit.

There are four choices of filling for the former – beef, pork, chicken, and tuna – and it provided the perfect example of how delicious pastries should be. I opted for pork, and what I got was a 30-centimetre long Picnic Roll that features a very crunchy puff and an equally tasty filling. I left it on a table for hours, and its crunchiness didn’t diminish even one bit. Its filling, which combines boiled egg and minced pork, was rich in flavour. TheLapis Surabaya, on the other hand, reminded me of the ones that my late grandmother used to make. It tastes buttery yet just sweet enough for my taste buds, which is something that can be difficult to get these days.

jabodetabek-heritage-toko kue marga jabodetabek-heritage-toko kue marga
Jl. Cimahi No. 8
Menteng, Central Jakarta
T: 021 3192 8034
Rp.155,000-180,000/US$11.50-13.50 for Picnic Roll
Open daily from 9am to 5pm

Started her career as a food writer in 2012, Jessicha Valentina is the online editor of Good Indonesian Food. Jessicha has loved Sayur Asem since she was a wee kid and spends her free time trying to cook it.


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