As soon as the sun touches the horizon and the city lights begin to illuminate the streets of Solo, it’s time to make your way to Jalan Teuku Umar and take part in its vibrant atmosphere filled with hawkers selling traditional dishes. A must-visit here is Nasi Liwet Bu Wongso Lemu, which you could find a few of its stalls lined up along the street – all operated by the same people.
Popular for its Nasi Liwet (rice cooked in coconut milk and chicken stock), Nasi Liwet Bu Wongso Lemu has been at it since the 1950s and has become the Nasi Liwet joint of choice for the citizens of Solo. I made a beeline to one of its warung whilst there – a typical roadside warung with a number of wooden tables and benches – and as I came by about five minutes before it was due to open up shop, I had the whole place for myself.
My Nasi Liwet was accompanied by a few dishes: chicken slices, ati ampela (chicken liver and gizzard), fried tofu, chayote, and some areh (condensed coconut milk) on top. The whole concoction was served on a besek (banana leaf), which helped in enhancing its aroma. In order to taste the ultimate Nasi Liwet experience, eat it with the areh and be prepared for a delightful explosion of flavours on your palate.
A word of caution: despite its official closing time at 1am, Nasi Liwet Bu Wongso Lemu tends to close way earlier if it runs out of food. To ensure that you don’t miss out on Bu Wongso’s tantalising masterpiece, make your way here as early as you can.
Jl. Teuku Umar, Solo
Open daily from 5pm-1am
Price: Rp.25,000/US$1.90 per person