Surabaya: Warung Nasi Cumi Cumi

Surabaya: Warung Nasi Cumi Cumi

While common folks may immediately dismiss a plate of risotto al nero di seppia (squid ink risotto) due to its ghastly appearance, foodies might think otherwise. In fact, it actually tastes better than it looks and is an Italian delicacy that is loved by many. Now, imagine having one with a variety of side dishes in the style of our beloved Indonesian cuisine. Intrigued? Well, allow me to introduce you to Warung Nasi Cumi Cumi in Surabaya.

Located right next to Pasar Atom, this unassuming stall has existed for decades and is currently run by the second generation of the founder’s family. Of course, they don’t use fancy rice such as Arborio or Carnaroli, but that’s just a minor detail worth overlooking.

The 24-hour warung serves four different types its mixed rice: Nasi Biasa (squid ink mixed rice with prawn fritters), Nasi Campur (squid ink mixed rice with prawn fritters and fried beef), Nasi Komplit (squid ink mixed rice with prawn fritters and beef offal), and Nasi Cumi Rawon (squid ink mixed rice with beef black soup). All the food here are prepared separately prior to serving à la warteg.

After you place your order, the staff would combine all the elements in one plate and then pour the squid ink all over them. Newbies might get put off by its outward form but trust me when I say that it’s only a facade that conceals a scrummy gem of a dish. The squid ink lends a pleasant savoury flavour with a hint of saltiness, and it becomes an even more flavourful occasion when combined with the offal and the prawn fritter – a potpourri of sweet, savoury, salty and spicy flavours. It might not be healthy, but it sure tastes as good as our Italian friends’ treasured risotto.

Jl. Waspada,
Surabaya, East Java
Open daily 24 hours

Started her career as a food writer in 2012, Jessicha Valentina is the online editor of Good Indonesian Food. Jessicha has loved Sayur Asem since she was a wee kid and spends her free time trying to cook it.


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